"Congratulations goes to our own David Posey who’s taken the reigns as the new chef de cuisine. " And so we learned but a few days before going, that Mike Sheerin is no longer the chef, although the restaurant's website says that he " will continue to maintain his formidable presence at Blackbird as Private Dining Chef but with vigilant focus on opening his own project." Posey has already begun remaking the menu, though it's hard to know how long this transition has been in process.
Now I had been to Blackbird but once, many many years ago, for lunch. And what with one thing and another, had never made it back. So when I discovered that the Lovely Dining Companion was taking me there for my birthday, I was quite looking forward to returning. Remarkably enough, when we arrived at the restaurant it suddenly dawned on me that the place I had lunch, lo these many years ago was, in fact, not Blackbird. As it happens, I've apparently never eaten at Blackbird at all! Surprise of surprises. All the more reason to be thrilled with her choice. And so I was.
We had an early reservation, 6 pm, and were seated at the two-top next to the front window, against the wall. LDC had asked for a quieter table (recognizing that "quiet" is a relative term at Blackbird). In the event, it was likely the quietest table in the house and it turned out I was particularly glad we started early. the two-top behind us, next to the maitre d's stand was eventually populated by four women who stood out for the volume of their conversation, even in a noisy restaurant. I was extremely pleased that we were just finishing as they were just starting.
Reading the menu was my first hint that things would be a little different here (more of which, anon). The choices are not extensive but quite intriguing given their number. We both found a number of dishes that appealed, but not before we considered--and eventually decided against (for this visit, anyway)--the tasting menu. One appetizer and one entree each. Since we usually share bites (or more) with each other, choosing dishes involves at least some element of negotiation. And so it was here. But since the options were generally quite appealing to both of us, it wasn't exactly a chore.
Moments after ordering, we were each served a beautifully presented
amuse bouche: lardo with Asian pear. We are neither of us particular lardo fans (yes, I hear the shocked, collective intake of breath out there in LTHland). The lardo was...piggy but delicate and the pear, delicate as well. The difficulty with Asian pear is that, even more than the pears we may be used to, it has a very high water content. Its contribution is textural more than taste; and in this instance, the slight sweetness of the pear didn't seem to do much for the lardo (or vice versa), though the textural counterpoint to the fat was appreciated.
We ended up with two quite different appetizers: an endive salad for LDC and sweetbreads for me. The menu description is straightforward: "Salad of endives with crispy potatoes, basil, dijon, pancetta and poached egg." The description alone made us both salivate a little but, ah, the presentation! This may be the first time ever when the presentation managed to exceed the deceptively simple description. The potatoes were shredded into what amounted to linguine, then shaped into a very attractive large cup and deep-fried. The salad was artfully arranged inside, reminding me of the care that great flower arrangers take with some of their creations. Really lovely.
Sadly, the person who brought this course (not our server) couldn't do his job quickly enough; he took but an instant to demolish what the kitchen had so lovingly created. I should point out that, after we had ordered the apps, our server had specially placed a separate knife and fork by the side of LDC's regular dinner silver, presumably for her use later on. After the gentleman who brought the salad put it down, he reached across LDC to pick up the silver that had been put there (for LDC's use?) and then proceeded to wreak havoc. (Okay, dramatic hyperbole. In fact, he was doing an excellent job of cutting everything for easier handling and mixing it all together, much as one prepares a Caesar salad tableside. On the other hand, if this was his job, why was the additional silver placed next to LDC's regular silver? Why didn't he bring his own?) I had no time to get a picture; hell, we didn't even have a moment to enjoy the beauty of the dish.
(Deconstructed) endive saladI find this little incident appalling. In the first place, he rushed to do his job before we had more than three or four seconds to take in, much less appreciate, what the kitchen had done. In the second place, he didn't tell us what he was about to do or ask if it was okay. In the third place, as should not be surprising, in his haste to do his job, a few pieces of salad (and poached egg) went flying. In the fourth place, I am astonished that the restaurant wouldn't let a customer do this for themselves--or at the very least ask if they would prefer to do it for themselves or have it done. Mostly, it would have been nice to have more than an instant to appreciate the effort that went into creating it. The server's rush to get through his job ruined what could have been a superb presentation and opening for the dinner to follow. It is more the pity since LDC rhapsodized about what was, in essence, a simple farmhouse salad. Unfussy, simple ingredients prepared perfectly.
Moving on, this is probably the place to expand on my comment above that merely reading the menu intimated that this was likely to be an unusual dinner. The combinations of ingredients is simply too noteworthy to overlook. I offer as Exhibits A, B, and C the following descriptions of appetizers copied directly from the menu:
"Swan creek farm suckling pig with lillet-stewed apricots, snow peas, water chestnuts and beer vinaigrette"
"Braised octopus confit with pickled ramps, baby romaine, malt and candied red onion"
"Coffee-scented fluke tartare with lemon cucumber, saffron, and bread sauce"
We don't eat out a lot, but we do range fairly widely and I am used to seeing unexpected and unusual combinations. But most of the items on the menu here struck me for their wackiness--and I mean that in the most positive and complimentary way. Seriously. Beer vinaigrette, octopus with malt, coffee-scented raw fluke with bread sauce? My choice of the word "wacky" does
not mean wrong or crazy or freakish. It means beyond the unexpected, extraordinarily (at least to me) startling, even bewildering. But the combinations, no matter how unforeseen or unforeseeable, ultimately matter only in the tasting. If it works, bravo! And many of what at first seemed bizarre combinations worked exceptionally well. In fact, I found that the combinations at Blackbird were often so well-chosen that they highlighted the focal ingredient in ways I would never have thought possible.
Sweetbreads with lime onions, tamarind, and fried chocolateCase in point, my appetizer. I chose the glazed veal sweetbreads with lime onions, tamarind, bee pollen and fried chocolate. The lime onions were shredded onion marinated, I presume, in lime juice. At least that's what the flavor evoked for me. The fried chocolate was a mica-thin sheet, used as decoration as much as flavor component. The sense of tasting chocolate--as in candy bar--was barely there. Think mole, instead. In any event, I suggest that you would have to look far and wide to find any restaurant in Chicago or indeed, in the United States, that pairs sweetbreads with any of those other items. I've ordered sweetbreads all over the U.S. and abroad and I cannot recall ever having a dish that so remarkably focused attention on the sweetbreads themselves. This dish highlighted their texture and unique flavor. I've had some superb presentations and, truth be told, some I've enjoyed more than the Blackbird version. But I've never had one, ever, that made me sit up and take notice of sweetbreads the way this dish did. Then, when set in the context of all of the other items, the interplay was profound. It called to mind similar revelations at Alinea. It made me rethink sweetbreads and anything that can prompt a reaction like that has to be extraordinary. Indeed, the experience goes far beyond "did you like it?"
Entrees had presented another opportunity for indecision. The LDC found herself in a quandary: Roasted sea bass accompanied by green papaya, dandelion greens, walnuts or "slow-cooked" halibut and brandade with chinese broccoli, angelica and pickled cherries. The wagyu tri-tip was the dark horse (as it were). We discussed, considered, mulled, and finally she consulted the waiter. He paused, pondered, and finally made his recommendation, which LDC took. The kicker and what decided the choice? The bass was dressed with a "charred beef vinaigrette" and that, it seems, contributed greatly to its success. LDC professed herself quite happy with it. As with my entree, the whole achieved its success from the contribution of unusual and unexpected parts. A tribute to a chef--was it Sheerin or was it Posey?--with not only a great palate but a wonderful vision of how things work with and play off of each other.
Sea bass with green papaya and dandelion greensSkate with peach molasses and eggplant confitI ordered sautéed skate (standing in for turbot, which is the fish listed on the internet menu) with peach molasses, slices of peach, and eggplant confit "breaded" with chamomile. Now then: this again illustrates the point I made above about the startling combinations. Peach molasses? In the event, I found the brushstroke of molasses to be more like a peach preserve reduction but who cares? It complemented the skate wonderfully. By the time the entrees were finally brought--there was a very long delay (15-20 minutes) between removal of the apps and entrance of the entrees--I had completely forgotten the eggplant element of the dish. And so was completely befuddled when I tasted it. The chunks of eggplant looked, for all the world, like sweetbreads. But the taste was absolutely indefinable. I couldn't tell whether I was eating a vegetable, fruit, meat, or something else entirely. I finally had to ask our server who pointed out that the eggplant was cooked very low and slow and then coated with the chamomile. Once I knew what it was, I recognized it, but the way the eggplant was cooked (I have to presume) gave it a somewhat funky taste. Texture wasn't an issue but the flavor, while not off, was off-putting. The chamomile helped, marginally. For me, this was an experiment that didn't really work, but the peach molasses and slice of fresh peach brought out the sweetness of the skate (which was beautifully crusted and perfectly done). Not all experiments succeed, but I was very happy with the skate.
(A side note here about the bread service. One bread, a multigrain of some sort. I don't know because the bread server couldn't have been any more rushed when he delivered it. He slapped down two pieces each, a serving of butter with some sort of herb, and rushed away. Had I not asked for more bread later in the meal, we would never have seen him again. Though the selection was non-existent, the bread itself was crusty and very flavorful. We both enjoyed it but were both taken aback by the server's immense rush to deliver the bread and get away.)
Dessert? I couldn't resist the sweet corn ice cream with bacon brioche, some candied pecans, basil and maple syrup. The LDC went with brown butter cake with raspberries, borage and goat’s-milk caramel ice cream. Once again, fascinating pairings and wonderfully successful dishes. The corn was surprisingly (to me) strongly corn-flavored. I expected "corn flavor" and got "
CORN FLAVOR." The brioche was studded with bacon bits and the cylinder of ice cream rested on a highway of crushed pecans. The ice cream itself was impressive but every time I succeeded in getting all of the elements on a spoon, the whole was greater than the sum of the parts. A triumph.
Sweet corn ice creamBrown butter cakeLDC's dessert was both a success and a disappointment. Reading the description, one expects to find, in some fashion, form, or way, a chunk of brown butter cake. Look at the picture. See that small square in the middle of the bowl. That's it. No matter how good, such a small portion of what appears to be the focal point of the dessert is disappointing. I at least received a lengthy cylinder of sweet corn ice cream. LDC was impressed with all the various elements and each one's contribution to the whole. Except for the cake. We'll skip over the fact that it wasn't particularly redolent of brown butter. Those of you who know her, know she is a small person with an equally smallish appetite. This portion wasn't enough even for her. And it's a pretty rare occasion when she mentions portion size in a negative light. Dinner ended with mignardises--two truffles and two blackberry gelees.
Will we return? I look forward to doing so. Criticisms aside, it's a rare chef or restaurant that forces (or allows) me to fundamentally rethink (or at least reconsider) everything that's on the plate in front of me. It's an attractive menu (though I'll be curious to see what direction Posey now takes it) with many tempting things. I'm very eager to taste more of dishes that promise to teach as well as delight.
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)