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Kulan Restaurant - Somali Restaurant in Edgewater

Kulan Restaurant - Somali Restaurant in Edgewater
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  • Kulan Restaurant - Somali Restaurant in Edgewater

    Post #1 - July 16th, 2015, 4:37 am
    Post #1 - July 16th, 2015, 4:37 am Post #1 - July 16th, 2015, 4:37 am
    24-hour eateries always fascinated me. Especially East African ones:

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    A quick search on the Internet suggests that it’s been previously called Jubba, Habeeb, or Dalmar. It’s now listed as Kulan and when I arrived at 8pm, cabs were parked outside, their owners waiting to break the Ramadan fasting. Inside, there were no menus or non-African men visible. After greeting several people, one of the customers directed me to Samil behind the counter. He told me that they had beef, chicken, and fish, but all the while I could only pay attention to the delicious plates of fried pastries on the back counter.

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    I picked fish and an order of the “sweet things” as they were described to me. I had planned to eat in, but Samil advised against that since it was supposed to get rowdy once Iftar started. An extremely sweet and enthusiastic grandma packed a to-go box as well as a plate of the pastries for me.

    My heart sank a bit when I felt how floppy and soggy the round pancake was. But after a few minutes in the oven, it was good as new and OH MY GOD. It had cardamom fragrance and browned edges and all the sweetness and fluffiness appropriate for a first-rate almond croissant. It goes by lahooh, laxoox, malawah, or anjero. Although related to Ethiopian injera, it’s made from sorghum or wheat flour.

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    The other parts of the meal were less impressive:
    baajiye (black-eyed pea falafel with a habanero kick)
    cruller and sambusa - these have been sitting for a while
    bariis – Somali biryani that was well-seasoned and not oily
    salmon – I had thought that being on the coast, Somali cuisine would have some more interesting fish
    salad was not seasoned or dressed, and beans were unremarkable, although beans + rice always satisfied like nothing else

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    Overall, I would go back for the lahooh, but continue my foray into Somalian cuisine here or here.

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    Kulan Restaurant
    6258 N Clark St.
    Chicago, IL 60660
    (773) 856-3600

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