Heading down Ashland on a Saturday or Sunday it's difficult to miss the giant cow parked in Swap-O-Rama's lot. It's owned by
Cremeria Santa Maria, a very nice shop in La Villita, that maintains a booth at the flea market.

If you go around to the sidewalk on Ashland, directly under the bovine's backside, you'll find a humble stand with some interesting offerings.


It was the guajolota (guajolote means turkey) that caught my eye. These bolillos stuffed (like a turkey) with a tamal are far from unknown in Chicago, but in my experience it's not terribly common to see it listed on menus, at least by that name. Sometimes it's called a torta de tamal. As I understand, in and around Mexico City it's a convenient breakfast or snack, inexpensive and easy to eat neatly without utensils. Atole or champurrado are classic accompaniments to tamales.
They have two types of tamales: green (chilies and cheese) and red (pork in a mildly spicy sauce). I chose the red, which was outstanding.

I'm no expert on assembly of guajolotas, but this was the first time I recall seeing the tamal carefully sliced into thirds. It's a good idea, slightly lengthening the tamal for better fit and releasing some delicious juices to mingle with the bread.

Two salsas are available: a tomatillo-based green and a somewhat hotter red. Both are excellent.

Of course, the guajolota is quite similar to the
Mother in Law, a tamale-in-a-bun sometimes found at Chicago hot dog stands. I don't believe the guajolota to be the mother of the Mother in Law, however, and can find no evidence of any influence of one on the other. Most likely, it's a pair of oddities that arose independently in two different culinary cultures.
Swap-O-Rama
4100 S Ashland Av
Chicago
https://swap-o-rama.com/