Entente (and some Elske)

Anyone been to Elske or Entente (or both)? I will be heading to each place in the next couple of weeks and did a search to prepare and there do not seem to be any posts related to either. In any event, I'll plan to report back.

https://elskerestaurant.com/menu/
1350 W. Randolph
(312) 733-1314

https://www.ententechicago.com/
3056 N. Lincoln
(872) 206-8553 (yo! new area code)

I went to Entente and thought it warranted a return visit. I mentioned their outstanding biscuit on this thread but I enjoyed a lot of what I had there. Between myself and my companions, we ordered the entire menu. Dishes were creative and tasty, and for the most part, expertly prepared. I thought that the flavor combinations were very well thought out. That said, the 2 dishes that had the most potential for outright deliciousness (Fettuccini, Carolina Gold) were utterly destroyed by too much salt - like so much salt, it burned. Cocktails were clever. Wine and spirit offerings were interesting, and service was friendly and informative.

It was also notable that even though very few reservations appeared be available online for when we wanted to go, the place was virtually empty when we were there. So, phoning for a reservation may be a more efficient way to proceed. They'll require a credit card but it's not a ticketed, pay-in-advance situation like some other places.

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I've been to Entente twice already; heading back again at the end of the month, so obviously I am a big fan. First visit went with another couple and we shared the entire menu. Felt dishes ranged from good to outstanding. For the price, the creativity and quality is an amazing deal. Definitely save room for dessert, because they are stellar. Loved the vibe and extremely friendly service as well.

Elske I went to opening weekend; was mostly positive, but a couple to-be-expected opening gaffes (both in service and food). However love the concept they are striving for and super talented people behind Elske. Am returning next month and am expecting it should be a wonderful experience. Am hoping it will be a warm enough evening to take advantage of an after dinner libation by the fire in their beautiful outdoor area.

Thanks for the feedback Suburban Ronnie and Gonzo. As I review the menus they look similar in concept (and price point), including bread service charges , so visiting within a couple of days of the other should be a good compare/contrast exercise. I love the order the whole menu gambit - looks possible at both places given our hungry 4 top groups. Will report back.

Also, I can't remember the name of the predecessor (perhaps with an intervening place) izakaya in the Entente space, which I liked very much, but the back room there always felt a little deserted and cold because the front bar had more action - though it strikes me the opposite might be true at a place like Entente. Interested to see what they've done to marry the two. Also, fireplace at Elske sounds great.

Ahmad Shareef wrote:Also, I can't remember the name of the predecessor (perhaps with an intervening place) izakaya in the Entente space, which I liked very much, but the back room there always felt a little deserted and cold because the front bar had more action - though it strikes me the opposite might be true at a place like Entente.

That would be Chizakaya.

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Wondering if the moderators might want to split this into threads for each restaurant. In the meantime, will say I was at Entente Friday, friendly service with excellent pacing, all four of us liked all nine dishes we had, would need to order the Carolina Gold on every visit.

Smassey wrote:Wondering if the moderators might want to split this into threads for each restaurant. In the meantime, will say I was at Entente Friday, friendly service with excellent pacing, all four of us liked all nine dishes we had, would need to order the Carolina Gold on every visit.

Mod Note:

It's tough to truly split this thread into 2 because some of the posts contain content about both places. But we did our best to part them on a going forward basis and this one is for Entente.

Thanks,

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for the Moderators

ronnie_suburban wrote:

Smassey wrote:Wondering if the moderators might want to split this into threads for each restaurant. In the meantime, will say I was at Entente Friday, friendly service with excellent pacing, all four of us liked all nine dishes we had, would need to order the Carolina Gold on every visit.

Mod Note:

It's tough to truly split this thread into 2 because some of the posts contain content about both places. But we did our best to part them on a going forward basis and this one is for Entente.

Thanks,

=R=
for the Moderators

Great solution, thank you for your prompt response. Seemed like it would only get more complicated on a going forward basis.

I had an amazing meal at Entente earlier this week. Everything we ordered was delicious, beautiful and interesting. We started with the biscuit and ramp butter, totally outstanding, even better than the biscuit I had at Giant a few weeks back and the butter was amazing. We also did the pumpernickle pretzel, little gem salad, wedge salad, liver, skate, lamb and duck. Everything is designed to be shared, which was really fun for the four of us. The salads were excellent, the liver was wonderful, it had some kind of "Old Fashioned" glaze over the top of it. The duck may have been one of the best preparations I've ever eaten, it was really outstanding, the lamb was also great, as was the Skate (though not served in wing form as one might expect). We had the cheesecake and the tres leches for dessert, although the cheesecake was beautifully plated, the tres leches was the star. I immediately made a follow up reservation for the next month, I can't wait to go back.

Agree 100% on the duck dish - it is outstanding and the 'dirty rice' it comes with is spectacular.

Entente seems to be keeping many of the same protein items in place since it opened, but making tweaks to the surrounding preparations as the seasons change. Look close at the menu if you've already been because things may not actually be the same dish you had previously. For example, the duck was done in an asian-styled prep during the winter but had none of those elements now. For my money the profiterole is the dessert to order, but the tres leches is a stunner as well. Desserts here are some of the best in the city right now.

Having been to Entente 3x now, I hope it doesn't fall off people's radar because they are cooking at a very high level.

A friend and I ate at Entente a few weeks ago and were totally underwhelmed. The dishes were interesting/creative and attractive in appearance, but were only so-so in taste, with nothing at all memorable or wow-inducing. Maybe we hit it on an off night, but many of the dishes were the same as those described above by others, but all were just... meh.

As it happens, we ate the following evening at another restaurant (Ruxbin) and several of the dishes on the two menus were quite similar, including octopus and a little gem salad. But the difference between the two was night and day; unlike Entente, we loved everything at Ruxbin for being amazingly delicious, and would return in a heartbeat.

I point this out only because the juxtaposition was so jarring. A restaurant should not be judged by comparison with another restaurant, but rather, on its own merits. And on its merits, we were disappointed by Entente and have no plans to return.

Let me start by saying this about Elske: it just didn't do it for my. However, I had the tasting menu and perhaps that was the source of the problem. The one dish we ordered and shared that wasn't on the tasting menu might have been my favorite of the night.

But moving on, Entente is the restaurant I will no doubt visit again . . . and probably again and again. Gorgeous plating, warm service and fantastic food. And I'm gathering from what others have eaten, the menu is constantly changing. But here's a look at this past Thursday's menu:





Yes, the biscuit is gloriously buttery and flaky. And the elotes butter was every bit as delicious.





I was really blown away by the green garbanzo hummus. Add in some fantastic olive oil, apricot, bitter greens and a fruit and nut flat bread and you've got a contender for dish of the year. Vegetarians will be thrilled.





I was practically licking the green goddess dressing off the plate holding the wedge salad. The Benton's bacon, cambozola, tomatoes (including roasted tomato powder) might not have even been necessary, but they turned this great wedge salad into a showstopper. And what a gorgeous presentation.





The little gem salad didn't sound like something I'd love, but the combination of green strawberries, freeze dried strawberries, crispy jalapenos, almonds, pickled ramps, goat cheese, honey and a lemon-poppy seed dressing was outstanding. I still think I preferred the wedge, but both were great.





And that liver! Bourbon, orange and angostura gelee, plus grilled sourdough. This might not have been as gorgeous as the liver tart at Elske, but I much preferred the flavor combination.





When it comes to lobster, I tend to prefer butter and lemon, a bib and a corner of the room where I can go at it by myself. I find that lobster's flavor often gets lost in more elaborate presentations. But Entente's lobster with cucumber, green curry and fermented coconut was outstanding. The lobster was cooked perfectly (sous vide?) and managed to shine through and was complemented by the other flavors. And yes, another gorgeous presentation.





We ate on the early side, when natural light made picture taking easy. The rest of my pictures were not as good. But I'll note a few other highlights: for entrees, the short rib and the duck. The short rib also appeared to have been cooked sous vide, then crisped, and was absolutely perfect. We were also comped a couple of desserts. Both were excellent but the tiramisu really stood out. Interestingly, it featured an asparagus ice cream that while I didn't love on its own, really worked beautifully in the dish.

The only dish I couldn't recommend was the skate, due to the skate texture itself. The other components of the dish, including the white asparagus, were great.

I'm sure I'll be back at Entente soon. This was one of the best meals I've had in Chicago. Gorgeous plating and flavors that lived up to the expectations created by the plating.

BR wrote:Let me start by saying this about Elske: it just didn't do it for my. ..
...But moving on, Entente is the restaurant I will no doubt visit again...

...I'm sure I'll be back at Entente soon. This was one of the best meals I've had in Chicago. Gorgeous plating and flavors that lived up to the expectations created by the plating.

Having been one of the LTHers to share this meal with BR, I couldn't agree more with everything he said. This meal was chock-full of surprises and I can't wait for the menu to change so we can do it all over again.

To fill in some photo gaps:

BUTTERMILK BISCUIT Seasonal butter (elotes)


GREEN GARBANZO HUMMUS Fruit & nut flatbread, apricot, bitter greens


LIVER Bourbon, orange, angostura, sourdough


WEDGE Benton’s bacon, cambozola, tomato, green
goddess


LITTLE GEM Goat cheese, green strawberry, jalapeno, almond,
pickled ramps, lemon-poppy seed dressing


LOBSTER Cucumber, green curry, fermented coconut


SKATE White asparagus, fennel, grapefruit, licorice


SLAGEL FARMS SHORTRIB Oyster stout, broccoli rabe, cashew


DUCK Grilled maitake, duck hearts, dirty rice,
watercress, spring onion, carbonated grape


SPAGHETTINI Rabbit merguez, fermented carrot harissa,
peas, mint, feta


ELYSIAN FIELDS LAMB Fava, last year's blueberries, pecorino, spruce


TIRAMISU Dulcey, Vietnamese coffee, green asparagus


PROFITEROLE Sour cherry, sassafrass, shiso

I was back at Entente this past weekend, after having an amazing experience on my last visit. I have to say, everything was as delicious as the last time except we tried the Spaghettini and I found it to be too salty. The duck was absolute perfection and the liver was ridiculously good. We also tried the Tiramisu this time and it was excellent, really different, but I enjoyed it tremendously. I look forward to getting back to Entente again.

Entente, which earned a Michelin star at its Lakeview location, is bringing its act to River North — and adding a key player. Entente will close its old location (3056 N. Lincoln Ave.) on March 2, and will reopen by March 25 in its new location (700 N. Sedgwick St.).

https://www.chicagotribune.com/dining/c ... story.html

That's awesome! It'll suck to lose a fantastic restaurant up north, but that stretch on Lincoln has to be so difficult from a profitability standpoint.

Another great restaurant that bailed on this bullding.

Exciting to see Ian Davis join. Hope entente can maintain the atmosphere. Despite Fisher's personality (loud! Exciting!), nevermind the delicious food, that restaurant can be so intimate and special.

Well, that sure didn't take long . . .

chicagotribune.com wrote:When we first reported that Entente (3056 N. Lincoln Ave.) would close March 1 to move to a larger space in River North (700 N. Sedgwick St.), part of the news was that Ian Davis, former chef at one-Michelin-star Band of Bohemia, would join Brian Fisher in a unique, two-executive-chef arrangement.

That’s not going to happen. Davis has withdrawn from the project, citing personal reasons.

Citing 'personal reasons,' chef Ian Davis departs Entente project

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Still more on recent developments . . .

chicagotribune.com wrote:On Monday, celebrated Chicago chef Ian Davis went to court to fend off accusations of improper behavior toward women. Seeking protective orders against two women, Davis described being labeled a “sexual predator” by one former co-worker who had complained to Band of Bohemia, the Michelin-rated brewpub where he worked through December.

The filings also mention an Instagram account, since taken down, that was “dragging my name threw (sic) the mud” and Davis’ concern that the situation “has put me in a rough spot to open up a new restaurant.”

By Friday, Davis was out of work. His lawyer revealed that Davis, in fact, would not be joining Entente, another top restaurant, as planned because of the developing controversy.

“He was allowed to resign, not because they believed this but because it was such a distraction,” said Davis’ attorney, Jeffrey Granich. “We are confident the truth will come out and his incredible ability will be recognized and applauded and enjoyed again.”

Former Band of Bohemia chef 'allowed to resign' from new job amid controversy over treatment of women

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I believe these accusations. I experienced or witnessed sexual abuse at almost every restaurant I worked at, and the culture was very misogynistic in subtle and often overt ways.

I actually find it hard to believe anything was done about it in this case, or that it made the news. Restaurants are still so far behind other industries in regards to responsiveness to and oversight of sexual abuse in the workplace. Workers don't typically have a lot of leverage with employers, or financial means to pursue justice in the court system.

It's great to see this though. Now that the media actually cares, it means victims may actually be listened to.

Just a quick note to memorialize a terrific dinner at Entente a couple weeks ago. (We think it's astonishing that the last post about the food here was well over two years ago.) The location is a little off the beaten path but it’s well worth your time to beating your own path here . The tasting menu was a true bargain at $150. We were astonished that on a Friday evening around 7 pm, the place was, perhaps, only half full. This is a woefully sad commentary on any number of things and both the Lovely Dining Companion and I would encourage anyone to visit.

The service was excellent, never hovering, always attentive. A touch obsequious to me but LDC pronounced herself extremely pleased. I should also note a generous gesture by the house. Much as I usually enjoy the wine tastings chosen by the house, I rarely go with them anymore for a simple reason: it’s just too much alcohol for me (coupled with the fact that a few months later, small tastes of so many things leave less vivid memories of most of the selections). So what I usually do instead is order one or two glasses to cover the entire meal. Our server (he commented that all their servers are sommeliers in their own right) was exceptionally knowledgeable about the wine selections. We discussed my choices at length and he offered samples to help me decide which way to go. The house, knowing it was a celebration dinner (and perhaps because, through our many questions both about the wine and the food made clear how interested we were), gave me—as a gift—tastes of three more of the wines from the wine tasting menu to accompany my later courses. It was a very kind and thoughtful gesture and very much appreciated.


Amuse: smoked hirame (fluke) with yuzu kosho, shishito, hoja santa


Fjord sea trout with watermelon, tomato, black olive, sumac


Kohlrabi [beggars’ purses] with langoustine, pork belly, charred eggplant dashi

Deceptively simple: I for one wasn’t expecting as much as this course delivered. An extremely complex and deep broth that would have been nearly a great course on its own. With the depth of flavor from the “purse” fillings, one of our favorite courses of the entire meal.


Kaluga caviar on “southern fried chicken [skin]”

Considering that this was the skin only, no meat, it was a remarkable achievement. I’m not a huge fan of the skin (I like it well enough, but it’s not the thrill for me that it is for many others), especially when no meat accompanies it. But in this case, who cared?! A wonderful idea, beautifully executed.


Ora king salmon with sour tomato, fennel, sweet corn

An absolutely sensational dish. We’d have never thought to pair sweet corn with salmon but this dish was easily a favorite for both of us. Not a single criticism.


Ris de veau with chicory root, black pepper, sour cherries and genmai

That’s shredded scallion on top. Not a quibble. You could taste all of the components and the pepper and cherries were a great complement to the rich but subtle flavor of the sweetbreads; the genmai “crunch” added a great textural note without adding too much in the way of flavor.


“Bread service”—pretzel rolls with pastrami butter

See my discussion below.


Matsutake with huckleberry tentsuyu [dipping sauce]

A complete non-starter for both of us. The mushrooms were salty and the dipping sauce tasted of nothing so much as more salt with, perhaps, if you were lucky, a slight huckleberry flavor. In the context of the entire meal, a huge disappointment.


Berkshire pork belly with peach nuoc cham, spigarello, mustard and peanuts


Long Island duck with black garlic, fermented strawberry, and herbs


Croissant with herbed chevre and fines herbes


Watermelon with guanaja chocolate and anise hyssop

Watermelon is a tough flavor and here, though I could get the sense that this was what it was supposed to be, the LDC didn’t and, in the event, it was overshadowed by the chocolate. Disappointing, though clever and beautifully presented.


Peaches & corn: grilled peach with cornbread and an almond croquant

Another disappointment: nothing “wrong” with it at all, but after the terrific achievement of the dinner, both dessert courses were let-downs. Perfectly fine but disappointing. Nothing about either course wowed us and while the combinations worked, they didn’t excite like many of the savory courses.

In addition to the disappointment of the matsutake and dessert courses, I should add one other note: the bread service. There is no bread with the tasting menu which was not a particular surprise. The LDC had done her homework, though, and read that the bread service at Entente was exceptional and that we shouldn’t miss it. So, about a third of the way through dinner, we decided to add it on. It’s $8 and we thought that a very fair price. What we didn’t realize is that you get one offering. We ended up with two lovely little pretzel rolls and pastrami butter (yes, and yes, that’s what it tastes like). That’s it. The pretzel rolls were excellent but two rolls don’t constitute “bread service,” no matter how good they are.

All in all, we thought dinner was terrific, flaws notwithstanding. We found most courses creative, enticing, and—without exception—beautifully presented. There may not have been the flash and dazzle of some other places, but we never missed it. Great service only added to the experience. When you toss in the price, we think it’s a terrific deal and are surprised, as we were with a similar experience at Smyth, that more folks here aren’t visiting (or at least aren’t writing about it).

Gypsy Boy wrote:Just a quick note to memorialize a terrific dinner at Entente a couple weeks ago . . .

Looks one helluva meal and wow, those pictures are the quite possibly the most stunning images I've ever seen posted at this site. Thanks, for the great report!

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ronnie_suburban wrote:...wow, those pictures are the quite possibly the most stunning images I've ever seen posted at this site. Thanks, for the great report!

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Coming from you, Ron, that is high praise indeed and more than generous. I can hardly agree--particularly in view of the thousands of exquisite shots of your own--but I thank you for the kind words.

Based on the yawn-inducing a la carte meal I had here over the summer, the tasting menu looks like the way to go.

Great review and fantastic photos! It often looks so dark in there when I walk by, did you sit by the window while it was still light outside?

Lerdawg wrote:Great review and fantastic photos! It often looks so dark in there when I walk by, did you sit by the window while it was still light outside?

Precisely. I refuse to use flash--ever (for food shots). And we got lucky with a table and the light to my side. In fairness to the house, it's not brightly lit but I wouldn't call it dark. I would have had a harder time if it had been completely dark out, but I'll take my luck where I can find it.

If you're in Android and don't have a Pixel, see if there is a version if the Google Camera (sometimes called GCam) ported for your device. The Night Sight mode there does a great job with low light even if your smartphone doesn't have the best lens or light capture otherwise. Computational Photography is the name of the game now.

Had a fantastic meal here right around when they first opened, and went back finally to the new location last night. Three of us ordered a la carte and it was as good or better than when they started. The liver remains for me the absolute highlight. We had nine dishes and everything was very good to outstanding. They recommended 6-9 dishes for three people, 9 was at least one too many for the three of us and we were hungry!

I have been watching to see when I may get my dream reservation at Entente but it is still showing the "we are closed until further notice" message. With time passing, i worry it is for good. Anyone has info on the future of Entente?

porkupine wrote:I have been watching to see when I may get my dream reservation at Entente but it is still showing the "we are closed until further notice" message. With time passing, i worry it is for good. Anyone has info on the future of Entente?

Anyone? I just called and the phone is disconnected/changed. Is it silly to keep hoping it will reopen at some point?