Chicago's ramen scene is definitely odd. For such a food-focused city, we seem to have a problem with really making our mark on this dish. I'm not saying that as a bitter ramen cook, although i know the conflict of interest, more as a dude who sees the incredible prowess Chicago chefs bring to most dishes in the city and does not see that reflected in our ramen. Most of it is tonkotsu, often with mayu on top. A lot of it comes from pre-made soup bases. And a lot of it is available to-go. But there are some winners right now. And, funny enough, it's not because they make tonkotsu.
Menya GokuMenya Goku opened last month, and they are a straight banger of a ramen shop. It's by the same group behind Wasabi, so their success is unsurprising, but the aesthetic of the store is more tightly controlled than their sister restaurant, very modern and bright by comparison. It's a small space, and they have maybe 4 bowls, plus some sides. The sides themselves are fine, not particularly noteworthy renditions of pseudo-Japanese dishes that you might find elsewhere in the city; brusselsporuts fried and covered in a sweet and tangy sauce, onigiri with plump rice and furikake, and ebi buns, always buns on these menus, holding crispy fried shrimp slathered in mayo. They ain't bad tho, an acceptable padding for your meal.
But the ramen... slaps. Forreal. I've tried four bowls now. I am a gross person. The highlights are the tantanmen and the shoyu, and these are easy contenders for best in show in Chicago proper. All normal bowls use Ippudo noodles, thin, straight, wirey noodles with big presence despite their narrow widths that cut through the soup. The tantanmen is heavy on szechuan spice, with big lemony notes and floral aromas, all while still being warming and rich from the sesame and chili oil that makes up this style. It's a dedacent bowl but without being overbearing. The shoyu, on the other hand, is punchy but in a more delicate way, a double soup of dashi and clear chicken soup, seasoned with soy sauce. Thin slices of pink-cooked pork placed ever so gingerly on the bowl, it have new-wave tokyo shoyu vibes. And the umami in this thing is crazy, my mouth salivating 30 minutes after eating this thing. It's easily the best shoyu ramen in Chicago.
So, yeah, this place rules. I hope it doesn't get completely mobbed out.
High Five: I recently went to High Five ramen after a several month hiatus from the place. For a long time it was hands-down my favorite ramen shop in the city, with intense subterranean atmosphere, an incredibly tight menu, and a really solid, thought-provoking bowl of spicy tonkotsu.
Over the last year or so, however, I feel like the bowls have been inconsistent, the temperature wildly out of wack, the spice levels varying considerably from visit to visit, the toppings messy, the flavor scorched and one dimensional one day and complex and vivid the other. And I only order the half spice high five!
They were on point last Friday though. The soup was decadently rich, the plating was perfect, the chashu was tender and flavorful. It reminded me of what High Five was like when I first went back when they opened. If I had to nitpick, I thought the noodles were a little soft, and I find the lack of cook on the beansprouts a little odd, but the dish is cohesive while being unique enough to stand out from the tonkotsu madness that ravages Chicago. That uniqueness is hard to find.
They had a 5 hour wait when I went though. That's bonkers.