I stopped by the newish Davanti Enoteca for dinner last night with my step mother. While the experience wasn't perfect, we enjoyed ourselves and would return.
ROOM/ATMOSPHEREUpon arriving in the main dining room, I noticed that the tables were rather crammed in. We bumped elbows with our neighbors beside us and bumped chairs with those behind us. I could see this bothering some folks, and they should request one of the tables with more space around the outside of the room. The music, during our several hour dinner, went from unobtrusive to blaring and hard to talk above. I like New Order and Love and Rockets, sure, but would prefer to not have it blasted at me during an otherwise relaxed meal.
SERVICEThe service was great. Everyone was helpful, polite, and friendly, and we probably had 4-5 different people stop at our table. We had two minor issues (neither of which had we raised to the staff), and they were immediately identified and addressed with apologies and grace. These folks have some great energy going on and they appear determined that no one should leave their restaurant displeased. In other words, the service was nearly unnecessarily good - - but hey, I'm not complaining.
WINEDavanti's approach to wine is that the restaurant is also a wine shop, and wine bottles cover several walls. You can buy any wine to take home, or enjoy the wine at the restaurant by paying a reasonable $7 corkage fee. In advance of my dinner, I'd read a few reviews of Davanti, several of which extolled Davanti's unusually fair wine program. I was a bit suspicious - - why would a restaurant look to get only $7/bottle when other restaurants are making a large percentage of their profits marking up wine 3-5 times retail? So, I took a look at their wine pricing and quickly realized that most of their bottles are marked up before the $7 corkage. Of the dozen or so bottles I looked at in the $15-25 range, only one wasn't marked up about $8-10 above retail. The bottom line is that the wine prices are generally reasonable compared to most restaurant markups, but don't be fooled into thinking you're just paying a $7 corkage. All that said, most of the wine they carry is under $30 before corkage, so we aren't talking big bucks.
FOODAs for the food, we had some hits and some misses, but enough good dishes that we'd return for a second visit. Something that seemed strange to me is that bread is not served with the antipasti. We asked for bread after seeing that we'd want to soak up the sauces. The server said she'd put in an order. About ten minutes later, we received four hot slices of bread that went very well with our food. We weren't charged for the bread, but it seems you have to request it. Next time, I'll be sure to request it earlier.
The highlight was a new-to-the-menu cauliflower dish, a large cross-section of cauliflower served with bits of soppressata, preserved lemon, and green olive tapenade. It's the next morning, and I'm already craving more of this simple dish.
We also enjoyed the truffle egg toast with fontina and asparagus. Basically, a brioche topped with two runny egg yolks. They serve it with a steak knife and you cut into the bread and the eggs, allowing the yolk to run pretty much everywhere. The asparagus was cooked well, with a pleasant crunch remaining. I liked this and would recommend it on a first visit.
The spaghetti with black pepper and pecorino was recommended by our server. I liked this dish, with properly cooked pasta and assertive black pepper. A simple dish and another winner.
White anchovies with olives, celery, and pecorino was less successful. All of the components were fine on their own, but there was nothing tying them together. The thickly sliced cheese was especially out of place. I wouldn't order this again, despite my affection for white anchovies.
I'm indifferent about the pork belly and apple mostarda dish. It wasn't delivered piping hot and more fat could've been rendered out. The apple mostarda should have been more punchy, with more acid and mustard to counter the belly's fattiness. I ate one slice, and then (highly unusually) decided that finishing the dish wasn't worth the fat/calories.
Our final savory dish was shaved fresh hearts of palm. Huge ribbons of raw hearts of palm with a minimal lemon, chili, and peppercorns. I didn't get this. It was bitter and low in acid. I wouldn't recommend this dish.
We had two desserts and while neither were mind-blowing, both were successful. My step mother loved her cannoli sundae, with bits of pistachio and candied oranges. My torta baccio was good, too. It was a thick chocolate-hazelnut mousse atop a crunchy cookie bottom. I'd recommend both.
So, while not all the food was wonderful, several dishes were. I will definitely return to explore more of the menu. I especially look forward to returning for the foccacia and pizzas.
Davanti Enoteca
1359 W. Taylor St.
(312) 226-5550
http://www.davantichicago.com/http://twitter.com/davanti_enoteca