I dined at Custom House last night with two companions. I agree with jesteinf that it is in the "style" of a steakhouse, unless you solely define "steakhouse" as a place that serves primarily meat. Custom House does teeter on inviting the inevitable comparisons to a classic Chicago steakhouse to be drawn because (1) it serves its entrees a la carte, with sides that are potato-heavy and (2) they offer three classic versions of steak on this relatively small menu, one of which is advertised as "dry-aged."
However, that's where I think the comparisons to a regular steakhouse have to end. It departs from the clubby, wood-paneled classic steakhouse interior. Custom House is sleek, but not overly so, with white tablecloths, neutral hues, well-spaced tables and a low conversational din. I would say that the trendiest this restaurant gets are the tables in the bar area that have adjacent, eye-level LCDs playing movies. Furthermore, unlike a regular steakhouse, the menu does not focus exclusively on various cuts of steaks or roasted meats with the occasional lobster tail. Custom House's entrees are comprised of 1/3 braised dishes like veal cheeks and 1/3 fish/seafood and only the remaining third dedicated to more classic steaks. The assortment of steaks were limited to a sirloin, rib-eye and a dry-aged NY strip. The starters depart from the norm with offerings like veal sweetbreads and soups which are way more complex and delicate than say, a cream of mushroom soup. The sides have their share of potatoes, but again, these are "kicked up a notch" -- fingerlings with white truffle oil and gratin potatoes with sheep's milk. (The entrees are each garnished with some type of "side," but I think that most people will want to order at least an additional side off the a la carte menu.) The sides are adequate for 2-3 to share a few bites.
When we arrived, the room was about 1/2 full. We were immediately ushered to our table. As we all intended to order red meat, we wanted an appropriate wine pairing. Almost immediately after my companion opened the wine list, she began snickering. It soon became apparent that the wine list was a joke - but not because there weren't plenty of respectable, even excellent offerings - but because the bulk of the menu that would pair with heavy beef dishes was above $80 per bottle. I could have found you a much more reasonably priced white, but unless I'm having fish, it didn't do me much good. In fact, there were many reds on the regular wine list that exceeded $100. I mean, come on - I think even Charlie Trotter's makes more of an effort to have reasonably priced bottles on his list, even taking into account markup. It became even funnier when we asked for a recommendations in the $60-75 range, and the very friendly and capable server, limited by the prices he didn't set, could recommend only about 2 of the 3 bottles in that range. The bottle we settled on (about $77) was fine, very nice, in fact, but we paid for it.
The food. I started with a mushroom soup which consisted mainly of an Asian-inflected mushroom broth - complex, rich and delicious. Someone else at my table ordered the spinach salad. She liked it. For an entree, I had the braised short rib, which came with horseradish cream puffs. My dining companions each had the rib-eye and the dry-aged NY strip. The NY strip was garnished with "cream spinach" which consisted of a small creamer-sized cup of what appeared to be a very creamy cream of spinach soup, which you sipped. Nice touch. Nobody had an issue with the portion size, unless, of course, you're comparing it so the Fred Flintstone-sized steaks at a classic steakhouse. In fact, my short rib was huge, and it was, well, braised. The meat was tender, fall-off-the-bone, and had that particular short rib taste, but that was about all. The horseradish puffs were interesting, but the horseradish taste could have ratcheted up. My friend complained that there was no tang to the dry-aged beef, which caused her to wonder how long it had been dry-aged - a day? 3 hours? At the risk of sounding cynical, I think that any amount of dry-aging time would allow the restaurant to advertise it as such as well as to charge the premium that dry-aged meat merits. But she immensely enjoyed the cream spinach. (Nobody's steak was served in a fanned-out fashion.)
For sides, we settled on the truffled fingerlings, which were good, kind of lemony, and the salsify - that was interesting. Very intense vanilla and orange flavor. If salsify was the main ingredient on an Iron Chef episode, this version of salsify could have been the dessert and even satisfied Jeffrey Steingarten. It was a bit of a shock to the palate, though, against all the savory flavors presented by the entrees. Because neither of us came close to finishing our entrees, we skipped dessert.
Service was impeccable, extremely knowledgeable, approachable and professional. I really wish they would vary the pricing on the wine list. In its current state, this restaurant becomes too much of a special occasion place. Furthermore, they're not doing anything so different with meat that would make it the first place to come to mind should you desire that. But my meal was good, even excellent at times, although there was nothing earth-shattering about the experience. In fact, if I have a hankering for short rib, I'm more likely to go to West Town Tavern and have the pot roast - smaller portion, yes, but it is perfectly paired with a nice sweet vinegar sauce and is about $12 less.