A couple of weeks ago, a colleague asked me if I had ever been to Glenn's Diner on Montrose. "You mean that breakfast joint by the el?", I asked her. "Yeah, that place", she replied, "But have you ever had dinner there?" . She then explained that the previous evening she and some friends had eaten a terrific and reasonably priced meal there. She raved about the Potato Encrusted Walleye Pike. Being a lover of all things walleyed and spuddish, that sounded right up my alley.
So a few nights later, I found myself driving down Montrose at dinner time with a friend in the pouring rain. We passed Glenn's and decided to give it a shot. I double-parked and ran into a liquor store up the street and grabbed an overpriced bottle of the only Sauvignon Blanc I saw (which actually turned out to be excellent). After driving around the block once, we found a parking place right across the street from Glenn's Diner.
Glenn's is not really a diner at all. It is more of a typical neo-urban coffee shop/eatery. It is somewhat cavernous with an open ceiling, exposed ductwork and brick walls. The tables are simple cherry wood veneer on iron pedestals. The decor is pretty minimalist. Plain but pleasant. The most prominent feature in the restaurant is an entire wall of cereal boxes behind a counter at the back of the room, which reinforces the whole post-industrial breakfast hall vibe. When we were there, there was some kind of photo exhibit on the walls, but the pictures were dwarfed by the openness and size of the room.
As soon as we walked in, we were greeted by the owner from the kitchen door at the far side of the mostly empty restaurant. He smiled and waved, like we were old friends he hadn't seen for a while. I actually had the feeling that I did know him from somewhere. "Red or White?" he shouted. "White" I replied. He yelled back "I'll get a bucket and some glasses", then disappeared into the kitchen.
A very pleasant young woman escorted us to a table near the window (isn't it funny how half empty restaurants always seat you in the window). She took our bottle of wine and also disappeared into the back, only to return moments later with the opened bottle in a bucket of ice nestled in a high-chair along with two chilled juice glasses.
While she was gone, I noticed the specials displayed on blackboards at either side of the room. With my middle-aged eyes, I struggled a little to read the boards. The one on our side of the room was too close to read and the one on the opposite wall was too distant. I told my partner I should have studied the specials before sitting down, just like I do at Davis Street Fish Market. Then it suddenly dawned on me where I knew the owner from. Back when I used to work in Evanston, he was the manager at Davis Street (when it was still really good). Suddenly, the whole Glenn's Diner dinner concept became familiar.
Just like at Davis street, the waitress offered us superfluous plastic encased menus with brass corners, but it was clear that this was also a place where everybody orders "off the board". What was on the boards, looked great. That night, there were 8 or 9 specials. Like at Davis Street, the emphasis at Glenn's was clearly on fish. I can't remember all the specials, but they included Atlantic Grouper, Idaho Brook Trout, "Gonzo" Tiger shrimp (more about them later), Black Fin Shark, Walleye Pike and for meatatarians, a token NY strip Steak. All the entrees were priced at $13-$18, except the steak which was more. There were two appetizers listed, scallops at $8.95 and "The World's Best Shrimp Cocktail" for $9.95, $15.95 or $20.95 (IIRC).
Whenever I am confronted with anything that is proclaimed to be the "world's best", whether a cup of coffee or a taco, I have to inquire exactly how that determination was made. Besides, I was a little curious about the three tiered price structure. So I asked the waitress if it was really the best shrimp cocktail on the entire planet, she smiled and replied quietly, "Actually, I'm from Maine". Enough said. However, she did assure us that it was quite good, but unusual. The cocktail consists of one, two or three giant-size prawns, hence the three prices. "One shrimp for ten bucks?" I asked. She held up her hand making a "C" with her thumb and index finger. "They curve from the tip of my finger to the tip of my thumb" she said, tracing the outline of an invisible shrimp. We played it safe and ordered just one shrimp and the scallops.
As it turned out, we should have forgotten about the scallops and just ordered the two shrimp cocktail. The scallop appetizer consisted of just four medium size scallops on a plate with a large dollop of mustard sauce for dipping. They were fresh and sweet, but rather unremarkable. What was remarkable was the shrimp "cocktail". It was not a cocktail at all, but a humungous charcoal grilled tiger prawn on a plate with an overly generous bowl of cocktail sauce on the side. The prawn was flavorful and firm, almost to the point of being chewy. The sauce had a healthy dose of horseradish and was a little sweet. I wouldn't call it the "World's Best" cocktail, but it was certainly very good.
For our entrees, my companion ordered the Black Fin Shark and I had the Potato Encrusted Walleye Pike. The Shark was a large fist-sized chunk of dense fish which needed to be cut with a steak knife. It had a light Teriyaki glaze with a garnish of crushed pineapple. True to the Davis street paradigm, the sauce was very minimal as were the sides. The emphasis was on the perfectly cooked piece of very fresh fish, which was lightly browned on the outside but still moist and cool at the center. Wonderful. Like I said, the sides were simple, steamed baby green beans and roasted red potatoes.
My Walleye Pike was more than I hoped for. In fact, I think it may make my top ten list of favorite indulgences. The dish consisted of a generous thick fillet of pike which was not really encrusted, but smothered in grated potatoes with a strong presence of onions and garlic. The potatoes were brown and crisp on top but still moist and crunchy in a fresh vegetable way. They reminded me of my Russian mother's potato pancakes. In fact, the dish was even accompanied by small bowls of sour cream and applesauce. The crunchy potatoes contrasted well with the moist and tender pike. Although the flavor of the potatoes did somewhat overwhelm that of the fish, overall the combination was fantastic. It was a delightful mash-up of two of my favorite foods. My entree was also accompanied by fresh steamed green beans, as well as a pile of creamy coleslaw. If there was one drawback to the meal, I would have to say it was the coleslaw. It was much too creamy for my taste. Still, it was fresh and flavorful, and I ate it all (the coolness of it went well with the potato fish pancake).
For dessert, we split a big piece of chocolate cake ($3.50) which was very moist and way too rich and chocolaty. Even with two of us working on it, we had to leave some.
In summary, Glenn's has great food, friendly attentive service, but not a whole lot of ambience. If you want a good piece of perfectly cooked fresh fish at a very reasonable price, but don't care about white table cloths, or mind drinking wine out of juice glasses, then it is a great place to go. In the end, our bill came to $60 including tax and corkage. Not bad for a meal of that quality. I would have happily paid twice that for the same meal in swankier surroundings. I will definitely make Glenn's a regular habit.
dave